疯狂驾驶—落基山的暴风雪(朗读者)/ 韩舸友(美国)

卷首语 —(文 / 闻笛;译 / 彧蛇)

在加拿大著名的人间仙境落基山中,有一条93号公路,是全球最美的景观道路之一,它绵延数百公里,一年四季景色壮观,充满魅力。在这里驾车行驶,沿途可看到瀑布,湖泊,草原,黑森林,雾霭山岚,以及巍峨峻峭、白雪覆顶的雄伟山峰,还有不时掠过车窗的清澈小溪与河流……
 
各种景致变化让人们并不觉得旅途寂寞难捱,倒是觉得眼睛不够使了。不但如此,幸运的话,还能看到大角羊、北美驯鹿、驼鹿,甚至灰熊、黑熊等北部大雪原特有的各种珍稀和凶猛的野生动物。

但是,这也是一条高高低低、蜿蜒曲折甚至磕磕绊绊的山路,悬崖峭壁,气候多变,使旅途充满了变数和挑战!特别是在冬季和早春,被冰雪覆盖的道路危险重重。

中国宋代著名的文学家王安石曾说,“夫夷以近,则游者众;险以远,则至者少。而世之奇伟、瑰怪,非常之观,常在于险远,而人之所罕至焉,故非有志者不能至也。” 正所谓世上奇妙奇特、非同寻常的景观,常常在那险阻、僻远、少有人至的地方,只有拥有坚强意志的人才能够抵达并欣赏。

在加拿大著名的人间仙境落基山中,有一条93号公路,是全球最美的景观道路之一,它绵延数百公里,一年四季景色壮观,充满魅力。在这里驾车行驶,沿途可看到瀑布,湖泊,草原,黑森林,雾霭山岚,以及巍峨峻峭、白雪覆顶的雄伟山峰,还有不时掠过车窗的清澈小溪与河流……
 
各种景致变化让人们并不觉得旅途寂寞难捱,倒是觉得眼睛不够使了。不但如此,幸运的话,还能看到大角羊、北美驯鹿、驼鹿,甚至灰熊、黑熊等北部大雪原特有的各种珍稀和凶猛的野生动物。
 
但是,这也是一条高高低低、蜿蜒曲折甚至磕磕绊绊的山路,悬崖峭壁,气候多变,使旅途充满了变数和挑战!特别是在冬季和早春,被冰雪覆盖的道路危险重重。

落基山上(韩舸友摄影)

中国宋代著名的文学家王安石曾说,“夫夷以近,则游者众;险以远,则至者少。而世之奇伟、瑰怪,非常之观,常在于险远,而人之所罕至焉,故非有志者不能至也。” 正所谓世上奇妙奇特、非同寻常的景观,常常在那险阻、僻远、少有人至的地方,只有拥有坚强意志的人才能够抵达并欣赏。
 
本文主人公今年3月从温哥华驱车近一千公里来到落基山旅行,返程途中,在93号公路上遭遇了一场暴风雪,在翻山越岭的艰难行驶中他沉着冷静,最终以勇气和毅力完成了这次极富挑战的冒险旅程,也因此对落基山的自然和人文环境有了更深刻的感受和领悟。现在,让我们追随主人公的脚步,一起走进落基山,走进暴风雪中的93号公路吧。

Preamble —(By: Wendi;Tr. by: Shadow Snake)
 
In the famous fairyland-like Canadian Rocky Mountains, there lies the Highway 93, which is one of the most beautiful scenic roads in the world. It stretches for hundreds of kilometers and has spectacular scenery and full of charm all year round. Driving through here, you can see waterfalls, lakes, grasslands, black forests, and mountain mist, majestic peaks covered with snow, as well as clear streams and rivers passing through the outside of your car windows at times …
 
Not only do these changing of landscapes make people feel un-lonely on the journey, but they make people feel overwhelmed that their eyes cannot keep up with the changing of the scenery. And if you are lucky, you can also see all kinds of rare and fierce wild animals that are unique to the northern snowfield, such as bighorn sheep, caribou, moose, and even grizzly bears and black bears.
 
However, this is also a winding and even stumbling mountain road with uphill and downhill, steep cliffs and ever-changing climate, which makes the journey full of unpredictable variables and challenges! Especially in winter and early spring, roads covered with snow and ice are extremely dangerous.
 
Wang Anshi, a famous writer in Song Dynasty in ancient China, once said, ” In a flat and close place, there would be many people coming to visit; In a dangerous and distant places, fewer people would come to visit. However, the wonderful, magnificent, rare and unusual landscapes in the world are often in the dangerous, remote and inaccessible places, so people without will power would not reach them” As the saying goes, the strange and unusual landscapes in the world are often in difficult, remote and inaccessible places, and only people with strong will can reach their destination and appreciate them.

In this article, the lead character drove nearly 1,000 kilometers from Vancouver to the Rockies back in March of this year. On his way back, he encountered a snowstorm on Highway 93. However, he was calm and composed during the difficult driving trip over the mountain range. He finally completed this challenging adventure with courage and perseverance, and thus had a deeper respect and understanding of the natural and human environment of the Rockies. Now, let’s follow his footsteps, walk into the Rockies together, and walk into Highway 93 through the snowstorm.

【作者简介】

韩舸友,大学教师,中国诗歌学会会员、中国法学会会员、中国唯美诗歌原创联盟副理事长、【美洲文化之声】国际传媒网总编、【美洲文化之声】俱乐部创始人、美国洛杉矶华文作家协会秘书长、贵州省港澳台侨投资商会副会长兼洛杉矶工委主任。1980年开始在省级刊物发表作品,部分被翻译成中、英、蒙多种文字发表,世界诗歌年鉴英文版2015年世界77个国家112位诗人诗选,2019年再次收藏其作品、并进入77个国家和联合国教科文组织图书馆。著有诗集“情殇”(2013)等。

疯狂驾驶—落基山的暴风雪(文/韩舸友)

三月的温哥华已是春暖花开,而落基山中却仍然是冰天雪地。翡翠般的露易丝湖,神奇的约翰逊峡谷,闻名遐迩的班芙小镇,都静静地躺在冰雪世界里。也许,只有动物出没的脚印,和探险者雪橇划过的痕迹,才能让人感觉到大自然的一点生机。
 
两天前,我冒着疫情肆虐的风险,从美国洛杉矶飞到加拿大温哥华,然后驱车近一千公里来到落基山,尽情地享受这场冰雪盛宴。特别是坐落在群山之中的班芙小镇,以童话般的故事,天堂般的意境,让每一个来到这里的游客都被深深震撼了。
 
早上起来,我在酒店阳台上好好欣赏了一番阳光下耀眼夺目的雪山,再次品味喀斯卡特山(瀑布之意)下晨雾缭绕的小镇,这才依依不舍地踏上返回温哥华的旅程。这是从卡尔加里到温哥华的州级公路,路面不宽,两边都是铲雪车堆满的雪,几乎没过车顶。由于这一段路面比较平坦,警察常常埋伏在雪堆后面狩猎超速的车辆。我一边小心驾驶,一边随时观察有没有警车。因为我是美国驾照,万一被警察拦停,恐怕会有麻烦。不过,在这样天高云淡、银装素裹的原野上驾车,还是忍不住会有超速的时候,好在几次遇见路边的警车我们都及时减速了。

森林和雪山在车窗外不时闪过。前方有一座雪山笔直地矗立着,若说它寂寞,却是无数的山峰彼此相依;若说它丰富,却是孤独地耸立在荒原深处,在绵延不绝的群山之中,凸显出它与众不同的个性。同行友人Jiemy说:“这里好像是在断背山附近”。

冰清玉洁(韩舸友摄影)

Duoyi是一位优秀的艺术家,身兼国家一级演员、编剧、导演数职。她突然问:“你们知道断背山的故事吗?” 
《断背山》是一部著名的美国电影,讲述一对青年男子同性恋的故事。该片曾取景于加拿大落基山中,并于2006年获得了第78届奥斯卡金像奖和第62届威尼斯电影节金狮奖等多个奖项。
 
Duoyi解释道:“断背山不是一座山,而是指落基山脉的一个区域。”原来,这里就是电影的外景地。想起电影中那个优美、凄婉的感人故事,和一幅幅美到极致的北美风光画面,令人感慨不已。
 
出发的时候,我们曾经商量,从另外一条路返回,就能避开来时的山路,这样既快捷又安全。我以为换了一条路,没想到在这样的聊天中又走上了需要翻越冰川的原路,而我却浑然不知。
 
车先在平地上跑了一段,然后沿着蜿蜒曲折的峡谷道路往山上行驶,明媚的阳光已经逐渐变成雾蒙蒙的天空,山越来越高,暴风雪也越来越强。我们终于稀里糊涂地开始了一段长距离的危险驾驶。
 
从班芙小镇到温哥华900多公里,其中横穿整个落基山脉的路程,大概有300多公里。去的时候气候还好,虽然也是冰天雪地,但是铲雪车随时在清除,道路还能勉强行驶。但今天是在海拔3000多米的落基山上顶着暴风雪开车,而且是一辆普通的BMW X3,车身很轻,又没有雪胎,在这样大的暴风雪里,危险程度可想而知。
 
已经离开班芙100多公里,不可能掉头了,更不敢在山上停车,因为没有任何地方可以躲避。在零下15度到30度的荒山野岭,除了偶尔经过的几辆车,几乎看不到生命的迹象,即使有,也是出来寻找食物的野生动物,所以停下并不安全,或者会有生命危险。
 
我将车由时速110公里降到80公里,又降到60公里,刹车也要特别小心,否则一旦失控,后果不堪设想。偶尔有重型卡车和带着防滑链的越野车跟上来,会在后面不停地按喇叭,催我加速。因为卡车在冰雪覆盖的道路上根本刹不住,特别是长下坡,速度慢了非常容易被追尾。
 
Jiemy是一个脾气比较急躁的人,特别会干扰驾驶员。一次,他嫌我在完全结冰的长下坡路面保持60公里时速太慢,要我加速;还有一次我为了避开卡车紧随后面的危险,主动让其超车的时候,他竟然认为卡车在后面更安全。所以无论他怎么生气,我都不予理睬。

有一次,可能是因为疲劳,精神恍惚了一下,我竟然将油门误当刹车,不仅没有减速,反而让车加速且打滑了。我立刻松开油门,重踩刹车,才将车控制住。Duoyi问我:“刚才怎么了?”我轻描淡写的说了句“没什么。”
 
经过三个多小时的艰难行驶,不知翻过多少山,越过多少岭,终于来到山下之前曾经停留过的小镇。加油站和附近的环境与前几天判若两样,暴风雪已经将这里包裹起来,几乎看不见路面。我的车在唯一碰见的红绿灯前面轻轻刹车,竟然滑了一米多才停下来,车轮与积雪摩擦发出的响声非常刺耳,把在侧面停车的警察都吓了一跳。
 
我将车停下来才发现,刚刚翻越的五个小时的山路,就是去时的93号公路,这几个小时的危险驾驶,假如走别的路是完全可以避免的。当然,我不仅不抱怨,反而很庆幸,因为这次暴风雪中的驾驶经历,是人生中又一次难得的极富挑战的冒险经历。

这次旅行所感悟到的,不仅是落基山的故事和壮丽的风景,更有大自然在暴风雪中所彰显出来的强悍恢弘的气势,以及对曾经世代生活于此的印第安人的敬意,他们同落基山一样,也拥有强健的体魄和坚毅勇敢的性情和品格。
 
再一次仰望风雪弥漫中的落基山,我满怀敬仰地深鞠一躬,然后上路继续我的旅程了。

班芙小镇之夜 (韩舸友摄影)

Crazy Driving — A blizzard in the Rocky Mountains (by Geyou Han/tr. by Sibin Lu)
 
Vancouver’s spring blossoms in March, but the Rocky Mountains are still frozen in snow. The emerald Lake Louise, the magical Johnson Canyon, and the famous town of Banff are all lying quietly in a world of snow and ice. Perhaps, only the footprints of the brown bear and the traces of the explorers’ sleighs can sign the vitality of nature.
 
Two days ago, I risked the devastating epidemic and flew from Los Angeles to Vancouver, and then drove nearly a thousand kilometers to the Rocky Mountains to enjoy this feast of ice and snow to my heart’s content. Especially in the small town of Banff, which is located in the mountains, the fairy tale-like story and the heaven-like artistic conception make every tourist who comes here deeply mesmerized.
 
When I got up in the morning, I enjoyed the dazzling snow-capped mountains under the sun on the balcony of the hotel, and once again tasted the small town surrounded by morning mist under Cascade Mountain (meaning waterfall), and only after these could I reluctantly started my journey back, driving on a provincial highway from Calgary to Vancouver. The road was not wide, and both sides were piled with snow from snow plowing truck, almost cliffing above the roof. Because this section of the road is relatively flat, the police often ambush behind the snowdrifts to hunt for speeding vehicles. While driving carefully, I watched for the presence of police cars at any time. Holding an American driver’s license, I was afraid I’d be in trouble if I got stopped by the Canadian police. However, I could not help speeding once a while when driving on such a plain, silver-covered wilderness, with forest and snow-capped mountains flashing past the window. Fortunately, we slowed down in time when we spotted a roadside police car several times.

There is a snow-capped mountain standing upright ahead. If you say it’s lonely, countless peaks stand side by side. If you say they are rich, it stands alone in the depths of the wasteland. The endless mountains do highlight an unique personality. Jiemy said: “This seems to be closed to Brokeback Mountain.”

Duoyi is an excellent artist who is also a national first-class actor, screenwriter, and director. She suddenly asked: “Do you know the story of Brokeback Mountain?”. “Brokeback Mountain” is a famous Canadian movie that tells the story of a gay young man. The film won the Golden Lion Award at the 78th Golden Image Awards and the 62nd Venice Film Festival in 2006.

Duoyi explained: “Brokeback Mountain is not a mountain, but an area of the Rocky Mountains.” Here is the setting of the movie, a beautiful, sad and touching story, a picture of the most beautiful North American scenery.

When we set off, we had discussed that by returning from another road, we could avoid the mountain road we took when we came, which should be quick and safe. But during our chat about the Brokeback Mountain, without paying attention, we crossed the glacier and changed the route.

The car ran on the flat plain for a while, and then drove up the mountain along the winding canyon road. The bright sunshine gradually turned into a foggy sky, the mountain was getting higher and higher, and the snowstorm stronger. Eventually we embarked on a long and dangerous driving unwittingly.

From the small town of Banff to Vancouver is more than 900 kilometers, it must traverse the entire Rocky Mountains for about 300 kilometers. On the way there, the weather was good. Although it was also icy and snowy, the snow plowing truck was clearing away snow at any time, and the road could barely fit for driving. But today I was driving in a snowstorm on the Rocky Mountains at an altitude of more than 3,000 meters, and my vehicle was an ordinary BMW 3X with a very light body with no snow tires.

In such a big snowstorm, the level of danger can be imagined. Having been more than 100 kilometers away from Banff, it is impossible to turn around, let alone halt the car on the mountain, as there was nowhere to hide. In the wilderness of minus 15 to 30 degrees Celcious, there was almost no sign of life except for a few vehicles passing by occasionally. Even worse, brown bears and tigers and leopards could be coming out looking for food, so stopping would be life-threatening.

酣睡的落基山(韩舸友摄影)

I reduced the speed from 110 kilometers to 80 or 60, and I had to be very careful when I braked, otherwise the consequences would be disastrous if I lost control. Occasionally, heavy trucks and off-road vehicles with snow chains would follow, and they would keep honking their horns behind to urge me to accelerate. Because the truck can’t stop at all on the snow-covered road, especially the long downhill, it is very easy to be rear-ended when the speed is slow.

Jiemy is a quick-tempered person, and he often interferes with the driver. Once he thought that I was too slow to maintain 60 kilometers per hour on a long, icy, downhill road, and asked me to accelerate; another time I let some trucks to bypass in order to avoid a truck. But he thought I should overtake them, because it was safer for the truck to be behind. Anyway no matter how angry he got, I ignored him.

Once, maybe due to fatigue, I was in a trance and mistook the accelerator as brake. Not only did I not slow down, but instead I accelerated and slipped. I immediately released the accelerator and stepped on the brakes to control the car. Duoyi asked me: “What happened just now?” I said “nothing much” lightly.

After more than three hours of hectic driving, I don’t know how many mountains and ridges have been crossed, we finally came to the small town at the bottom of the mountain. The gas station and the surrounding environment were different from the day before yesterday. The blizzard had already wrapped it up, and the road was almost invisible. once I braked my car slightly at the only traffic light I encountered, and it slipped for more than one meter before stopping. The sound of friction between the wheels and the snow was very harsh, which shocked the policemen who was parked on the side.

I parked the car and found out that I had just climbed the mountain for five hours. It was Highway 93 when I went there. It was not like Highway 95 at all. These few hours of dangerous driving could be completely avoided if we took Highway No. 95. Of course, None should I complain, but feel very fortunate, because this crazy driving across the Rocky Mountains in a snowstorm was another challenging adventure in my life.

What I learned from this trip is not only the stories and magnificent scenery of the Rocky Mountains, but also the magnificence of nature through the blizzard. The Indians who have lived here for generations have the same proud body and perseverance as the Rocky Mountains’ character of bravery.

Looking up at the mountains shrouded in the blizzard, I bowed deeply with admiration, and then continued on the journey that was still full of danger ahead.

维多利亚港的彩虹(韩舸友摄影)

《朗读者》本期编委:

本期卷首语、执行编辑:闻笛
本期责任编辑:曼都拉
本期正文英译:鲁四宾
本期中文诵读:军歌
本期英文诵读:楚楚
本期策划:程炯
本期卷首英译、英语责编、总编:彧蛇
本期编审:何根祥
本期排版设计:秋水伊人

《朗读者——海外精英》编委

主办单位
加拿大国际华人作家协会

合办单位
加拿大中国文学研究社
诗情太平洋国际文学社

团体名誉主席团
加拿大华人同乡会联合总会会长:韩加良
多伦多华人团体联合总会主席:翁国宁
加拿大中国商会团体联盟主席:王海澄
加拿大大西洋文化艺术交流协会会长:于琮章
加中海外交流協会会長:陸炳雄
加拿大多元文化民间艺术协会会长:沈谢元
加拿大多伦多艺空间文创中心总监:刘向平
加拿大中国专业妇女协会会长:梁梅英
加拿大加中经贸文化交流协会会长:周建成
加中地产投资总商会会长:孙志峰
北美华人健康协会会长:王培忠
加拿大国际摄影艺术交流协会/北美手机摄影协会/几何艺术中心主席:琥珀
加拿大国际健康养老产业联盟主席:程炯

企业名誉主席团
加雄集团董事长:陆炳雄

传媒名誉主席团
华人头条多伦多通讯董事长:彭良健
环球华语融媒体台长:王瑞军、向希拉
枫华传媒集团总裁:梁晓敏

名誉顾问
中国作协会员,世界华文微型小说研究会会长:凌鼎年

编委
总策划:程炯
总编辑:彧蛇
主编:曼都拉、尚佳莉
责任编辑:何根祥、刘俊民、铁木尔、郎文玲
英译指导:伊人在岸、彧蛇
英文翻译:彧蛇、伊人在岸、郎文玲、鲁四彬、悠悠玫瑰、赵宜忠John
朗读指导:陈阳、Salina
朗读编委:陈阳、Salina、尔凡、五月花儿开、玉华
排版编辑:秋水伊人、夢緑烟蘿、庄朝兰
主要执行编辑:彧蛇、程炯、曼都拉、何根祥、庄朝兰、姜尼、伊人在岸、铁木尔、刘俊民、孙瑞祥、玉华、由之、尚佳莉、黄海燕、郎文玲
摄影编辑:郭醒奇

协办单位团
活水北读书会
加拿大海河文学社

冰雪覆盖的小镇(韩舸友摄影)

RECITER: ELITES OF OVERSEAS EDITORIAL BOARD

Organized by:
· International Chinese Writers Association of Canada (ICWAC)

Jointly-organized by:
· Canada Chinese Alumni Literature Research Society
· Pacific Literature Association

Honorary Presidium of Social Organizations:
· President, Council of Newcomer Organizations: Edward Han
· Chairman, The Confederation of Chinese Canadian Organizations: Guo Ning Weng
· Chairman, Federation of Canadian Chinese Chamber of Commerce: Harris Wang
· President, Atlantic Culture and Arts Exchange Association: Charlie Yu
· President, Canada China Overseas Exchanges Association: Tony Luk
· President, Multicultural & Folk Arts Association of Canada: Jennifer Shen
· Director, Toronto Art Creations Centre of Canada: Xiangping Liu
· President, Chinese Professional Women of Canada: Angela Liang
· President, Canada-China Economy Trade & Culture Exchange Promotion Alliance: Ted Zhou
· President, Canada-China Realty Professional Association: Steven Sun
· President, Centre for New Immigrant Well-being: Pei Zhong Wang
· Chairman, Canada International Photographic Art Exchange Association / North America Mobile Photography Association / Geometry Art Center: Hooper Chen
· Chairman, Canada International Health & Culture Education Industrial Alliance: Jiong Cheng

Honorary Presidium of Entreprises:
· President, Canhome Group of Companies: Tony Luk

Honorary Presidium of Media:
· Chairman, Chinese Headline Toronto New Media: Liangjian Peng
· Directors, Global Chinese Convergence Media: Ruijun Wang, Cela Xiang
· CEO, Fenghua Media Group Inc.: Xiaomin Liang

Honorary Advisor:
· President of the World Chinese Micro-fiction Research Association: Ding Nian Ling

Editorial Committee:
· Producer: Jiong Cheng
· Editor-In-Chief: Shadow Snake
· Editor: Mandula , Jiali Shang
· Managing Editors: Gen He, Junmin Liu, Timur ci Tartar, Wendy Lang

巍峨壮丽的落基山冰川公园(韩舸友摄影)(韩舸友摄影)

责任编辑:Xue Li, yimeng

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